when do the terrible two's end?

[DeepLikeNin]

Mercuri is 6 months now...allllmost 7, and is still very nippy (many times, it's not a nip, she'll HANG ON). My boyfriend and my dad are now the only brave ones to handle her bare handed... I've resorted to really thin gloves so that i'm less afraid but she gets used to being handled with hands... are there more things i should try? Other than: making sure she gets enough sleep, watching out for what she might be trying to tell me? ... When will it stop if she's going thru the birdie "teething" phase??? :confused:

[LoveBugs]

Not sure but curious as well! It seemed as though my little birdie jumped from terrible twos to nesty hen stage!

However, one of my other birdie is in her terrible twos...but she's pretty sweet still. She really only nibbles on my fingers when she thinks I won't notice... Like... as if it's more of a I'm curious of what those giant things are... it brings me yummy and does my house work for me....But... the real question is... WHAT DOES IT TASTES LIKE!?

(Chomp chomp) Run away... it wasn't me!

[Buy A Paper Doll]

When my Milo was that age he was still in a molt period. The biting didn't stop until the molting did. Now Melody is about 7 - 8 months old, molting, and feisty and nippy as can be.

[Elle]

My Sammy was a biter when I got her. And wild and nowhere close to the hand fed baby I was told she was.
I had learned to handle her no more then 15 minutes at the time to start with. Like that she didn't get tired of me and we leave on a positive note. I handle her MANY times a day. But I understand that she has a short span of attention and liked to go back to her toy and play ground or needed time alone.
I noticed that 20 minutes was the maximumer before the biting was starting.
The other things I did is when biting started, I would give a sharp no! Then in a gentle tone I would say something like be nice, easy. and really encourage her when her niping and biting would turn into gentle exploring.
My Sammy was a biter when I got her. And wild and nowhere close to the hand fed baby I was told she was.
I had learned to handle her no more then 15 minutes at the time to start with. Like that she didn't get tired of me and we leave on a positive note. I handle her MANY times a day. But I understand that she has a short span of attention and liked to go back to her toy and play ground or needed time alone.
I noticed that 20 minutes was the maximumer before the biting was starting.
The other things I did is when biting started, I would give a sharp no! Then in a gentle tone I would say something like be nice, easy. and really encourage her when her niping and biting would turn into gentle exploring.
When that didn't work and she became very aggressive, I placed her in a small cage with only one perch, no toys, no food, in a room by herself for no more then 5 minutes. Birds are social and by being placed in " the corner" and being isolated, it seemed to really help her associate her biting behavior with " We don't tolerate this type of behavior in our flock". Birds are social and loves to belong. It has work for me very well.
I understand that your baby is young and molting doesn't help her but I also believe in teaching them social skills. Biting when it hurts is one thing but biting all the time is another.
I understand that Mercuri is young, and molting doesn't help her but you say she is hanging on when she bites. :( That's not being nippy in my books. I believe in teaching them social skills. Biting when it hurts is one thing and biting all the time is another.

[BarbieH]

Hi Cerissa;

I think the problem is partly molting and partly hormonal. Birds around that age are like teenagers, especially early teens: very testy, and sometimes easily disgruntled. Unlike human teens, they can't roll their eyes in disgust. :roll: The molting just makes it more difficult to handle her without causing some pain due to incoming pinfeathers.

I would encourage you to work more on dowel training at this time. All it involves are Mercuri's feet, because all you are trying to get her to do is step up (on and off the dowel). No feather discomfort! :) And you still have interaction with her.

I also think it's not such a good idea to wear gloves. I know you are more comfortable with them for now, but it won't be good for your relationship in the long run. Does Mercuri break the skin when she bites and hangs on? Is she hanging on because she has nothing to stand on at that point?

Those hookbills are like little Swiss army knives. They are multi-purpose. They help a bird eat, climb, explore, test the surface, chew, shred, eat, and communicate with the world around them.

I think Elle's advise about limited time out with you is great, so that you end your sessions on a positive note. It trains the bird not to associate "time out of the cage" with "time to bite."

Finally, it sounds like you need to relax a little more around her. If you are pulling your hands away quickly, Mercuri might be more inclined to use her beak in order to make sure they won't move suddenly.

Hope this helps. :)

[LauraO]

Cerissa: I agree with Barb about Mercuri using her beak more if she thinks you might pull away. My lovies often beak something is check how stable it is. Birds also smell fear and will use it to their advantage. She may bite at you more the more scared you are. I have this problem with my Meyer's who has a BIG beak I'm not used to. If I find myself scared I either check my fear or I come back later when I feel less fearful. I figure if the bird needs it's space I can need mine.

I also wanted to add that my experience with the fews hens I've had is that at about 1yr old they really start to calm down with the bitey thing unless they are actively nesting. Even my craziest hen CuddleBunny has stopped being so bitey since turning one. I still watch out for her though, she can still give a good BITE!

BARB: I love the Swiss army knife analogy. it's too fitting :).

[DeepLikeNin]

thank you for the all the input, everyone! i am terrified of her biting me, because sometimes she'll just step on...and sometimes she'll stand there and the second she sees my finger, she goes for it. Sometimes she'll use her beak just to get on (which of course, doesn't hurt), but sometimes when i think that's what she's doing, the bite just gets harder and harder. I feel so stupid sometimes that i'm so afraid of that teeny bird... :roll:

[sdgilley]

Cerissa,
I feel so stupid sometimes that i'm so afraid of that teeny bird...
My teeny birds can draw blood if they decide to! Peter draws blood when he bites :omg: . Luka doesn't quite have the "biter" in him, but will poke at my hands inside his cage if they're there too long. But there is plenty of good reason to be afraid to be bitten.

The key is to determine as much as you can when they are inclined to bite and when not. For example, Peter will not bite my shoulder or head, so I can tote him around that way. I never ever offer him my hands unless he's scared (like at the vets office). I offer him a perch to step up on, and that works fine.

Avoid instances of being bitten. The more time away from such behavior the better. That means if someone like your dad doesn't mind testing the biter, discourage that. Just don't put the bird in a position of biting (even a gloved hand) if you can help it.

Find other ways to interact with your lovie. Talk to her, play games with her, if possible, that doesn't involve her biting you. I've learned to exist differently with Peter, KNOWING the hand thing isn't something he'll get over. BUT each bird is different and you have to find out what works for you and your lovie.

Good Luck!